Japanese-Chinese Cuisine: Imperialism, Nostalgia and Cultural Heritage

ICC Collaborative Research Unit “Sophia Food Studies” Lecture Series #1

Kazuhiro Iwama (Professor of Asian History, Keio University)

October 23, 2025 (Thu)

18:00-19:30 (JST)

Room 301, 3F, Building 10, Sophia University

Hybrid Format / Registration required

Please register from here: https://forms.office.com/r/GBeabYMUnf

During Japan’s colonial era, various foods were introduced from Taiwan and Manchuria, areas under Japanese control, to the Japanese mainland. The perception and spread of Chinese food in Japan were influenced by Japanese imperialism. For example, during the period of Japanese rule in Taiwan (1895–1945), oolong tea and rice noodles were introduced to Japan. In broad terms, the introduction and spread of Chinese food in Japan took place from the 1910s to the 1950s, while its establishment as a staple occurred in the latter half of the 20th century. Notably, after World War II, the spread and establishment of Chinese cuisine in Japan were fueled by nostalgic sentiments for the Chinese mainland. In the 21st century, many dishes have been designated as “heritage,” “assets,” “local cuisine,” “regional popular foods,” and “100-year foods,” with numerous Chinese dishes and those with Chinese roots included in these categories.

Prof. Kazuhiro Iwama (Ph.D., The University of Tokyo,2005) is Professor of Asian History in Keio University’s Faculty of Letters, where he has taught since April 2015. His research explores the cultural exchange of cuisine—especially Chinese food—as a lens into nationalism, imperialism, and regional identity. He has held visiting researcher positions at SOAS, University of London, and Yonsei University’s Institute of Korean Studies, following earlier research stays across East Asia. Prof. Iwama is the author of Beyond Culinary Nationalism: A World History of Chinese Food (2021) and the editor of Chinese Cuisine and Modern Japan: Cultural Exchange History of Food and Taste (2019) (both in Japanese). His recent scholarship includes studies of Jingisukan, gyoza, Taiwanese oolong tea, and steamed pork buns in English and Japanese.

This series is organized by James Farrer (Professor of Sociology, Sophia University) and the ICC Collaborative Research Unit “Sophia Food Studies: Mobilities, Sustainability and Ethics.”

Photos:

B&W モダンな中華料理店に入る女性（『婦人倶楽部』12 (1) 1931年1月，第二附録）

Color 横浜中華街の「台湾美食　王府井」（2023年11月筆者撮影）